# Dermamelan vs Cosmelan: Differences for Melasma and Dark Spots

> How Mesoestetic's Dermamelan and Cosmelan depigmentation treatments differ: supervision, protocol length, evidence, side effects and alternatives like hydroquinone and cysteamine.

Canonical: https://antiagingcare.org/blog/dermamelan-vs-cosmelan
HTML version: https://antiagingcare.org/blog/dermamelan-vs-cosmelan
Author: Anti Aging Care Editorial Team
Published: 2026-04-22
Updated: 2026-10-24
Category: Skin Conditions

Dermamelan and Cosmelan are professional depigmentation treatments from the same company, Mesoestetic. The short answer: Cosmelan is positioned as an aesthetic treatment given by trained professionals, while Dermamelan is a medical treatment that requires a doctor's supervision. Published independent evidence for both is limited, so compare them with better-studied options before deciding.

## How they compare

| | Cosmelan | Dermamelan |
|---|---|---|
| Setting | Aesthetic treatment at an authorized clinic or center | Medical treatment requiring a doctor's supervision and monitoring |
| In-clinic step | Single session where a professional applies a depigmenting mask | Single in-consultation phase of about 4 hours |
| Home phase | Regimen of complementary products, about 6 months in total | Three home formulas over a 4-month protocol |
| Brand positioning | Professional method for stubborn spots | For the most severe and resistant spots |

Sources: Mesoestetic's [Cosmelan](https://www.mesoestetic.co.uk/lines/cosmelan) and [Dermamelan](https://www.mesoestetic.com/professional/lines/dermamelan) pages. Mesoestetic says Cosmelan isn't meant for active acne.

## What the published evidence shows

- **Dermamelan pilot study:** In an open-label study of 10 women with melasma (skin types II to IV), Dermamelan applied once daily for 3 months improved melasma severity scores by 50%. The maximum effect usually came within a month and was maintained a month after stopping. Mild irritation was the only side effect ([Ortonne and Bahadoran, *J Drugs Dermatol*, 2011](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22052305/)). With only 10 people and no control group, this is early evidence.
- **Cosmelan:** We didn't find a controlled trial of Cosmelan indexed in PubMed when searching for this article.

## Better-studied alternatives

| Treatment | Evidence |
|---|---|
| Hydroquinone | Long-standing standard; compared against most newer agents |
| Cysteamine 5% | In a meta-analysis of 7 trials, it beat placebo and was similar to 4% hydroquinone, with similar side effects ([Mawu et al., *Arch Dermatol Res*, 2024](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39673630/)) |
| Azelaic acid | Similar or slightly better than hydroquinone in a meta-analysis of 6 trials ([Albzea et al., *Cureus*, 2023](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37457606/)) |
| Thiamidol | All 14 studies in a review reported improvement, though evidence is limited ([Klein et al., *J Drugs Dermatol*, 2024](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39496126/)) |

## Side effects to expect

Depigmentation masks commonly cause redness, peeling and irritation in the first days, and the home phase can be drying. On darker skin, irritation can itself trigger more pigment, a risk known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation ([Davis and Callender, *J Clin Aesthet Dermatol*, 2010](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20725554/)).

## Questions to ask before booking

- Is this the authentic product, given at an authorized center?
- For Dermamelan, which doctor is supervising?
- What's the plan for maintenance after the treatment ends? Melasma often returns.
- What should I do if my skin becomes very irritated?

## Sun protection is non-negotiable

Any melasma treatment fails without strict sun protection. Use broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher daily and reapply outdoors ([AAD: sunscreen FAQs](https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/sun-protection/shade-clothing-sunscreen/sunscreen-faqs)).

## Frequently asked questions

**Which is stronger?** The company positions Dermamelan for more severe and resistant pigmentation, but there are no head-to-head trials.

**Can I do it during pregnancy?** Ask your doctor; there's no safety data for pregnancy in the studies we reviewed.

**Is the result permanent?** Melasma is chronic, so plan for maintenance and sun protection.

_This article is for educational purposes only and is not medical advice. We have no commercial relationship with the brands mentioned, and this article is not sponsored. Talk to your dermatologist about your situation._

## Sources

- Ortonne JP, Bahadoran P. A pilot study using reflectance confocal microscopy in the assessment of a novel formulation for the treatment of melasma. *J Drugs Dermatol*. 2011. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22052305/)
- Mawu FO et al. Efficacy and safety of cysteamine 5% cream for the management of melasma: a systematic review and meta-analysis of RCTs. *Arch Dermatol Res*. 2024. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39673630/)
- Albzea W et al. Azelaic acid versus hydroquinone for managing patients with melasma: systematic review and meta-analysis. *Cureus*. 2023. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37457606/)
- Klein PA et al. Isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol (Thiamidol) for combatting hyperpigmentation: a systematic review. *J Drugs Dermatol*. 2024. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39496126/)
- Davis EC, Callender VD. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. *J Clin Aesthet Dermatol*. 2010. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20725554/)
- Mesoestetic. [Cosmelan](https://www.mesoestetic.co.uk/lines/cosmelan); [Dermamelan](https://www.mesoestetic.com/professional/lines/dermamelan)