# Dermaplaning: Benefits, Risks and Whether It Helps Aging Skin

> What dermaplaning does (removes dead skin and fine hair), what the evidence says, who should avoid it, at-home vs professional, and aftercare.

Canonical: https://antiagingcare.org/blog/dermaplaning-anti-aging-benefits
HTML version: https://antiagingcare.org/blog/dermaplaning-anti-aging-benefits
Author: Anti Aging Care Editorial Team
Published: 2025-10-09
Updated: 2026-10-24
Category: Treatments

Dermaplaning uses a sterile blade to scrape away dead skin cells and fine facial hair. The short answer: it can make skin look smoother and help makeup sit better for a few weeks, but it's a surface treatment with limited scientific evidence and doesn't reverse wrinkles. A systematic review of dermaplaning and similar treatments concluded the supporting evidence is suboptimal and that these methods work best within a full skincare regimen including sunscreen ([Pryor et al., *Aesthetic Plast Surg*, 2011](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21533984/)).

## What it does

| Benefit | Reality |
|---|---|
| Smoother feel | Yes, temporarily |
| Brighter look | Yes, from removing dead skin |
| Better makeup application | Yes |
| Removes peach fuzz | Yes; hair doesn't grow back thicker |
| Reduces wrinkles | No meaningful evidence |
| Improves product absorption | Research shows dermaplaning increases skin permeability, which can also increase irritation |

## Who should avoid it

- Active acne, especially inflamed breakouts
- Rosacea, eczema or very sensitive skin
- Cold sores in the area
- Recent retinoid irritation, isotretinoin, or chemical peel
- Darker skin prone to dark marks should be cautious about nicks and irritation ([Davis and Callender, *J Clin Aesthet Dermatol*, 2010](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20725554/))

## Professional vs at-home

Professional dermaplaning uses a surgical blade at a controlled angle. At-home tools are smaller and safer but still carry risk of nicks, irritation and infection if not cleaned. Never share blades.

## Aftercare

- Gentle cleanser and moisturizer
- Broad-spectrum sunscreen; fresh skin is more sun-sensitive ([AAD: sunscreen FAQs](https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/sun-protection/shade-clothing-sunscreen/sunscreen-faqs))
- Avoid retinoids and acids for a day or two, or as advised
- Don't dermaplane more often than about every three to four weeks

## Better options for aging skin

For wrinkles and texture, retinoids ([Weiss et al., *JAMA*, 1988](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/3336176/)), sunscreen ([Hughes et al., *Ann Intern Med*, 2013](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23732711/)), peels and lasers have stronger evidence.

## How dermaplaning compares with other ways to smooth skin

Dermaplaning only removes the top layer of dead cells and fine hair. Options with more research behind them:

| Option | What the evidence shows |
|---|---|
| Daily 5% glycolic acid cream | In a 3-month randomized trial of 75 people, it improved skin texture and discoloration versus placebo; the trend for wrinkles wasn't statistically significant ([Thibault et al., *Dermatol Surg*, 1998](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9598014/)) |
| Retinaldehyde 0.1% cream | Matched three glycolic acid peels for crow's feet depth over 8 weeks, with better texture and far fewer side effects ([Rouvrais et al., *J Cosmet Dermatol*, 2018](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30027612/)) |
| Retinol | Improved fine wrinkles in naturally aged skin ([Kafi et al., *Arch Dermatol*, 2007](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17515510/)) |

Dermaplaning can make skin look smoother right away, but for lasting changes in texture and fine lines, topical retinoids and acids have stronger data.

## Frequently asked questions

**Does hair grow back thicker?** No, it only feels blunt as it regrows.

**Does it hurt?** It shouldn't; it feels like light scraping.

**Can I do it with acne?** Avoid active breakouts.

**How long do results last?** About three to four weeks.

_This article is for educational purposes only and is not medical advice. Talk to a board-certified dermatologist about your situation._

## Sources

- Pryor L et al. Dermaplaning, topical oxygen, and photodynamic therapy: a systematic review of the literature. *Aesthetic Plast Surg*. 2011. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21533984/)
- Davis EC, Callender VD. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. *J Clin Aesthet Dermatol*. 2010. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20725554/)
- Hughes MC et al. Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a randomized trial. *Ann Intern Med*. 2013. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23732711/)
- Weiss JS et al. Topical tretinoin improves photoaged skin. *JAMA*. 1988. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/3336176/)
- American Academy of Dermatology. [Retinoids](https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-secrets/anti-aging/retinoid-retinol); [Sunscreen FAQs](https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/sun-protection/shade-clothing-sunscreen/sunscreen-faqs)