# The INKEY List vs The Ordinary Retinol: Starter Retinol vs Retinol 0.5% in Squalane, Compared by Ingredients

> The INKEY List Starter Retinol combines an encapsulated retinoid ester with a little retinal; The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane is a minimalist water-free serum. How they differ.

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Author: Anti Aging Care Editorial Team
Published: 2026-10-24
Category: Skincare

The INKEY List and The Ordinary are both known for simple, ingredient-led skincare, and both sell beginner-friendly retinoids. The short answer: The INKEY List Starter Retinol is a cream-serum with 1% "Granactive Pro+" (an encapsulated hydroxypinacolone retinoate system) plus 0.01% retinal, with soothing and barrier ingredients. The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane is a short-ingredient, water-free oil serum with 0.5% retinol in squalane. INKEY says Starter Retinol replaces its original Retinol Serum, which is discontinued.

## The short answer

| Feature | The INKEY List Starter Retinol | The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane |
|---|---|---|
| Retinoid(s) | Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (in 1% Granactive Pro+), 0.01% retinal | 0.5% retinol |
| Base | Water-based cream-serum | Water-free squalane/oil serum |
| Extras | Squalane, bisabolol, ginger root extract, lipids | Jojoba oil, tomato and rosemary extracts |
| Ingredient count | Long list | Short list |

Ingredient lists come from each brand's own page ([The INKEY List](https://www.theinkeylist.com/products/starter-retinol); [The Ordinary](https://theordinary.com/en-us/retinol-05-in-squalane-serum-100440.html)). Formulas change, so check your package.

## What's in The INKEY List Starter Retinol

The brand lists 1% Granactive Pro+ (which it describes as a next-generation retinoid with encapsulation), 0.01% retinal, a 0.5% lipid complex and a calming ingredient. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) is a retinoic acid ester; in laboratory and animal research, a closely related HPR compound reduced UV-induced photoaging markers ([Hu et al., *J Invest Dermatol*, 2026](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/41644086/)). Human head-to-head trials against retinol are limited.

**Best for:** first-time retinoid users, sensitive skin, and people who prefer a creamy, water-based texture.

## What's in The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane

Just eight ingredients: squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, jojoba oil, retinol, tomato fruit extract, rosemary leaf extract, hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone and BHT. The Ordinary suggests starting at 0.2% and moving up through 0.5% to 1%, and says it's suited to dry skin. Retinol has controlled-trial evidence for improving naturally aged skin ([Kafi et al., *Arch Dermatol*, 2007](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17515510/)).

**Best for:** normal to dry skin, people who like a minimalist oil serum, and users stepping up from 0.2% retinol.

## How they compare

Retinol and retinal convert to retinoic acid in the skin, while HPR is thought to act more directly but has less clinical history ([Mukherjee et al., *Clin Interv Aging*, 2006](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18046911/)). Because the retinoids differ, percentages aren't directly comparable. Oil-based serums can feel heavy on oily or acne-prone skin.

## How to use either one

1. If you're new to retinoids, start 2–3 nights a week and build up.
2. Apply a pea-sized amount to dry skin at night, then moisturize.
3. Don't layer with other retinoids, and avoid acids on the same night at first.
4. Wear broad-spectrum [sunscreen](/blog/sunscreen-anti-aging-guide) every morning.
5. Avoid retinoids if you're pregnant or trying to conceive unless your doctor approves.

Compare more in [The Ordinary vs Paula's Choice retinol](/blog/the-ordinary-vs-paulas-choice-retinol), [Neutrogena vs CeraVe retinol](/blog/neutrogena-vs-cerave-retinol) and [retinol vs bakuchiol](/blog/retinol-vs-bakuchiol).

## Frequently asked questions

### Is the original INKEY Retinol Serum still sold?

The INKEY List says its original Retinol has been discontinued and replaced by Starter Retinol.

### Which is gentler?

Both are pitched at beginners. INKEY's includes soothing ingredients; The Ordinary's oil base can also buffer. Patch test either.

### Can I use them with vitamin C?

Use vitamin C in the morning and the retinoid at night.

## Bottom line

INKEY's Starter Retinol is a newer-style, encapsulated, ingredient-rich formula; The Ordinary's 0.5% is a minimalist retinol in oil. Choose by texture and skin type, start slowly and use sunscreen daily.

_This article is for educational purposes only and is not medical advice. We have no commercial relationship with either brand. Talk to your dermatologist about your situation._
## Sources

- The INKEY List: Starter Retinol ingredients and FAQ. [theinkeylist.com](https://www.theinkeylist.com/products/starter-retinol)
- The Ordinary: Retinol 0.5% in Squalane ingredients. [theordinary.com](https://theordinary.com/en-us/retinol-05-in-squalane-serum-100440.html)
- Hu F et al. Hydroxypinacolone 9-cis retinoate mitigates UV-induced photoaging. *J Invest Dermatol*. 2026. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/41644086/)
- Kafi R et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). *Arch Dermatol*. 2007. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17515510/)
- Mukherjee S et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging. *Clin Interv Aging*. 2006. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18046911/)