Dermaplaning: Benefits, Risks and Whether It Helps Aging Skin
What dermaplaning does (removes dead skin and fine hair), what the evidence says, who should avoid it, at-home vs professional, and aftercare.
Dermaplaning uses a sterile blade to scrape away dead skin cells and fine facial hair. The short answer: it can make skin look smoother and help makeup sit better for a few weeks, but it's a surface treatment with limited scientific evidence and doesn't reverse wrinkles. A systematic review of dermaplaning and similar treatments concluded the supporting evidence is suboptimal and that these methods work best within a full skincare regimen including sunscreen (Pryor et al., Aesthetic Plast Surg, 2011).
What it does
| Benefit | Reality |
|---|---|
| Smoother feel | Yes, temporarily |
| Brighter look | Yes, from removing dead skin |
| Better makeup application | Yes |
| Removes peach fuzz | Yes; hair doesn't grow back thicker |
| Reduces wrinkles | No meaningful evidence |
| Improves product absorption | Research shows dermaplaning increases skin permeability, which can also increase irritation |
Who should avoid it
- Active acne, especially inflamed breakouts
- Rosacea, eczema or very sensitive skin
- Cold sores in the area
- Recent retinoid irritation, isotretinoin, or chemical peel
- Darker skin prone to dark marks should be cautious about nicks and irritation (Davis and Callender, J Clin Aesthet Dermatol, 2010)
Professional vs at-home
Professional dermaplaning uses a surgical blade at a controlled angle. At-home tools are smaller and safer but still carry risk of nicks, irritation and infection if not cleaned. Never share blades.
Aftercare
- Gentle cleanser and moisturizer
- Broad-spectrum sunscreen; fresh skin is more sun-sensitive (AAD: sunscreen FAQs)
- Avoid retinoids and acids for a day or two, or as advised
- Don't dermaplane more often than about every three to four weeks
Better options for aging skin
For wrinkles and texture, retinoids (Weiss et al., JAMA, 1988), sunscreen (Hughes et al., Ann Intern Med, 2013), peels and lasers have stronger evidence.
How dermaplaning compares with other ways to smooth skin
Dermaplaning only removes the top layer of dead cells and fine hair. Options with more research behind them:
| Option | What the evidence shows |
|---|---|
| Daily 5% glycolic acid cream | In a 3-month randomized trial of 75 people, it improved skin texture and discoloration versus placebo; the trend for wrinkles wasn't statistically significant (Thibault et al., Dermatol Surg, 1998) |
| Retinaldehyde 0.1% cream | Matched three glycolic acid peels for crow's feet depth over 8 weeks, with better texture and far fewer side effects (Rouvrais et al., J Cosmet Dermatol, 2018) |
| Retinol | Improved fine wrinkles in naturally aged skin (Kafi et al., Arch Dermatol, 2007) |
Dermaplaning can make skin look smoother right away, but for lasting changes in texture and fine lines, topical retinoids and acids have stronger data.
Frequently asked questions
Does hair grow back thicker? No, it only feels blunt as it regrows.
Does it hurt? It shouldn't; it feels like light scraping.
Can I do it with acne? Avoid active breakouts.
How long do results last? About three to four weeks.
This article is for educational purposes only and is not medical advice. Talk to a board-certified dermatologist about your situation.
Sources
- Pryor L et al. Dermaplaning, topical oxygen, and photodynamic therapy: a systematic review of the literature. Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2011. PubMed
- Davis EC, Callender VD. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010. PubMed
- Hughes MC et al. Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a randomized trial. Ann Intern Med. 2013. PubMed
- Weiss JS et al. Topical tretinoin improves photoaged skin. JAMA. 1988. PubMed
- American Academy of Dermatology. Retinoids; Sunscreen FAQs
