The INKEY List vs The Ordinary Retinol: Starter Retinol vs Retinol 0.5% in Squalane, Compared by Ingredients
The INKEY List Starter Retinol combines an encapsulated retinoid ester with a little retinal; The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane is a minimalist water-free serum. How they differ.
The INKEY List and The Ordinary are both known for simple, ingredient-led skincare, and both sell beginner-friendly retinoids. The short answer: The INKEY List Starter Retinol is a cream-serum with 1% "Granactive Pro+" (an encapsulated hydroxypinacolone retinoate system) plus 0.01% retinal, with soothing and barrier ingredients. The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane is a short-ingredient, water-free oil serum with 0.5% retinol in squalane. INKEY says Starter Retinol replaces its original Retinol Serum, which is discontinued.
The short answer
| Feature | The INKEY List Starter Retinol | The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane |
|---|---|---|
| Retinoid(s) | Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (in 1% Granactive Pro+), 0.01% retinal | 0.5% retinol |
| Base | Water-based cream-serum | Water-free squalane/oil serum |
| Extras | Squalane, bisabolol, ginger root extract, lipids | Jojoba oil, tomato and rosemary extracts |
| Ingredient count | Long list | Short list |
Ingredient lists come from each brand's own page (The INKEY List; The Ordinary). Formulas change, so check your package.
What's in The INKEY List Starter Retinol
The brand lists 1% Granactive Pro+ (which it describes as a next-generation retinoid with encapsulation), 0.01% retinal, a 0.5% lipid complex and a calming ingredient. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) is a retinoic acid ester; in laboratory and animal research, a closely related HPR compound reduced UV-induced photoaging markers (Hu et al., J Invest Dermatol, 2026). Human head-to-head trials against retinol are limited.
Best for: first-time retinoid users, sensitive skin, and people who prefer a creamy, water-based texture.
What's in The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane
Just eight ingredients: squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, jojoba oil, retinol, tomato fruit extract, rosemary leaf extract, hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone and BHT. The Ordinary suggests starting at 0.2% and moving up through 0.5% to 1%, and says it's suited to dry skin. Retinol has controlled-trial evidence for improving naturally aged skin (Kafi et al., Arch Dermatol, 2007).
Best for: normal to dry skin, people who like a minimalist oil serum, and users stepping up from 0.2% retinol.
How they compare
Retinol and retinal convert to retinoic acid in the skin, while HPR is thought to act more directly but has less clinical history (Mukherjee et al., Clin Interv Aging, 2006). Because the retinoids differ, percentages aren't directly comparable. Oil-based serums can feel heavy on oily or acne-prone skin.
How to use either one
- If you're new to retinoids, start 2–3 nights a week and build up.
- Apply a pea-sized amount to dry skin at night, then moisturize.
- Don't layer with other retinoids, and avoid acids on the same night at first.
- Wear broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning.
- Avoid retinoids if you're pregnant or trying to conceive unless your doctor approves.
Compare more in The Ordinary vs Paula's Choice retinol, Neutrogena vs CeraVe retinol and retinol vs bakuchiol.
Frequently asked questions
Is the original INKEY Retinol Serum still sold?
The INKEY List says its original Retinol has been discontinued and replaced by Starter Retinol.
Which is gentler?
Both are pitched at beginners. INKEY's includes soothing ingredients; The Ordinary's oil base can also buffer. Patch test either.
Can I use them with vitamin C?
Use vitamin C in the morning and the retinoid at night.
Bottom line
INKEY's Starter Retinol is a newer-style, encapsulated, ingredient-rich formula; The Ordinary's 0.5% is a minimalist retinol in oil. Choose by texture and skin type, start slowly and use sunscreen daily.
This article is for educational purposes only and is not medical advice. We have no commercial relationship with either brand. Talk to your dermatologist about your situation.
Sources
- The INKEY List: Starter Retinol ingredients and FAQ. theinkeylist.com
- The Ordinary: Retinol 0.5% in Squalane ingredients. theordinary.com
- Hu F et al. Hydroxypinacolone 9-cis retinoate mitigates UV-induced photoaging. J Invest Dermatol. 2026. PubMed
- Kafi R et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007. PubMed
- Mukherjee S et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging. Clin Interv Aging. 2006. PubMed
